Wine critic Steven Baker follows the cool climate back roads of Oregon Pinot noir country and shares his journal. His business, Authentica Wines, is a membership based wine club.

~ October 2010

As I told my wine club members when I chose this as last month's outstanding Oregon pinot noir selection, familiarity often breeds contempt.

Not that I could ever be scornful of one of Oregon's truly great pioneering pinot noir familes, it's just that sometimes we are all obsessed with finding the next big thing, and the new kid on the block sometimes attracts undue attention at the expense of a familiar label.

But take some time to re-acquaint yourself with this wine. David Lett has of course passed on, but son Jason has assumed the mantle brilliantly, and he made this wine from start to finish.

What's really striking about this effort is the resemblance to classic Eyrie pinot noir of the past, and a stylistic thumbprint that is uncannily like David's back in the old days. By that I mean that this is a throwback to the original style of Willamette Valley pinot noir before the over-ripe manifestations that have taken over with the ever warming vintages.

This is elegant, supple, nuanced and just downright pretty pinot noir of the "old school" where classic Burgundy was the model and the true essence of cool climate grape growing was celebrated. Ripe cherries, strawberries, sandalwood, black tea and subtle herbal tones all vie for your attention in this polished wine.

But the true quality of all Eyrie wines only emerges after a few years in bottle or with decanting. If you are new to the game, or even a jaded connoisseur, you owe it to yourself to check this beautiful wine out. It represents one of the finest values of the 2008 vintage - easily.

~ Steve Baker

Eyrie
Dundee Hills Estate, 2008
Release Price: $30.00

Pinot Underground Recent Columns

January, 2010 ~ Crowley
February, 2010 ~ Evesham Wood
March, 2010 ~ Westrey
May, 2010 ~ Evening Land
June, 2010 ~ Iota
July, 2010 ~ Crowley (part2)
Aug / Sept ~ Ayres