Wine critic Steven Baker follows the cool climate back roads of Oregon Pinot noir country and shares his journal. His business, Authentica Wines, is a membership based wine club.

~ June 2010

Heading east past the old schoolhouse on the way out of the small town of Amity, Oregon one is transported back in time. As the white clapboard houses give way to burnished golden fields and rolling evergreens that climb the gradual slopes of the Amity Hills to the north, the occasional farmer in a pickup gives the universal greeting of a open hand on top of the steering wheel as you pass.

Its easy to miss the long gravel drive that leads up the hill to Iota Cellars and the home of Johanna and Don Sandberg, two native Minnesotans who have found a home in Oregon's Willamette Valley. The gray steel infrastructure of the new winery building stands against the hillside, surrounded by Dijon clone planted vineyards that wind their way back among the oak and fir framed hills. Its a beautiful spot for sure.

An Indie Wine Fest pick, the Iota Cellars, Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir stood out from the crowd, like a beacon on a dark night. Talking with Don & Johanna just confirmed my initial impression. These two "get it" and it shows in everything they do.

The Pelos-Sandberg vineyard occupies a transition zone between sedimentary and volcanic soils. As we walked up the hill with Johanna and Don, we passed large rocks in every row. "Look, there's an erratic" expressed Don as he bent to turn over a large gray stone, evidence of the difficulty involved when discing this vineyard.

The view from the top of the hill looking southwest shows the beautifully tended vineyards of several neighbors and the sight of the hawks circling below was accompanied by the drone of a distant tractor. "Its a beautiful view from here" said Johanna. Yes indeed.

These are exactly the people that I love to champion. A hard working family with no pretensions, imbued with the desire to make the best wine they possibly can and for a reasonable price. They're not seeking to build an empire - just to make a wine they and their family can be proud of. And they are succeeding admirably.

Only their second vintage, the 2007 is rich and balanced, with a purity of fruit and a lovely texture that are as easy on the palate, as the aromas are enticing to the nose. Charming now, this wine will age well for 3 to 5 years and should be in anyones cellar who appreciates fine, small production Oregon pinot noir. Get in on the ground floor now - you're going to want to follow these guys in the coming years.

~ Steve Baker

Iota Cellars
Pelos Sandberg Vineyard, 2007
Release Price: $36.00

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